Baltimore, MD - July 18, 2024 - With its refrigerated trucks and vast parking lot, the outside of the Tulkoff Food Products plant looks like every other business in the industrial park. But the 98-year-old business is anything but ordinary.
The six-acre site Tulkoff occupies in Holabird was once part of an active Army base during World War II—it’s where they tested the iconic Willys Jeep—and now houses a football-field-sized room filled floor to ceiling and front to back with horseradish.
You might think that a room filled with over two million pounds of horseradish root would make your eyes water, or at least your nose tingle, but instead it smells like the dirt that still clings to the root of the horseradish plants from when they were two feet in the ground. (Horseradish’s signature nasal-clearing kick comes from oils called isothiocyanates that are released once the roots are crushed.) And standing in Tulkoff’s lobby—filled with mementos from nearly a century of business—the strongest scent seems to be fresh ginger wafting from another part of the factory floor.
Phil Tulkoff, the company’s president for the past 19 years, descends the staircase. He’s warm but not overly chatty. There’s not an extra second in his day to spare. Were it not for the speckles of gray in his beard and some laugh lines around his eyes that get activated when he talks about his family, you’d never guess he was in his 60s. A sweet golden retriever named Sofie—Tulkoff is fostering her for the Valor Service Dogs program—trails after him.... Read More: Baltimore Magazine